Monday, April 28, 2008

One 22" Bag for 8 Nights? - The Conclusion

I'm back from my eight-night trip to Tel Aviv, Moscow, and Paris with all my luggage and plenty of ideas for future articles. Many thanks to the lovely Wandering Albatross and Voyageuse for keeping the blog alive in my absence.
After my somewhat frantic and jet-lagged post from the BA lounge in Heathrow at 5am London time, I am pleased to say that despite my fears my luggage followed me all the way through the week and back through Heathrow again, even through a transfer from Terminal 5 to 4 with only a two-hour layover. Yay!

British Airways ultimately did not allow my 22" bag on board because it was just a teensy bit overstuffed, but I am happy to say that I still managed to pack everything I needed for my trip without even using the bag's expansion zipper. If I'd used some compression bags for my clothes, I'm sure I would have gotten the luggage on board.

So how does a girly-girl like myself fit eight nights' worth of stuff into such a "small" bag?

Step 1: Pick the right luggage. My Pathfinder bag comfortably fit two pairs of shoes and includes a snap-in/snap-out 1-quart clear zipper bag for toiletries (which I didn't use as my primary toiletry bag, but could have). It also comes with a very slim, lightweight garment bag (not used on this trip, but handy) two inner zipper pockets and two very large ones on the outside. Yes, putting things in those outside pockets may have led to my bag's BA denial, but other airlines may be a bit less restrictive. Do the research with your airline beforehand and err on the conservative side.

Step 2: Do you really need all those shoes? The answer is likely "no". And this is coming from a girl who owns many, many pairs. Shoes take up a lot of space. You may try to justify that extra pair by telling yourself that you can pack your socks in them - but honey, shoes take up way more space than socks. For this trip, I actually started the packing process with my shoes, and I packed just two pairs and wore one. Yes, that makes only three pairs for a week+ trip. It can be done! I wore my slip-on Pumas (on the left) while in transit because they're both comfy and practical: no shoe laces or metal bits to deal with when going through security. For my four days of business I packed a black pair of comfortable Clarks heels (from a previous trip through Heathrow - Clarks has much better designs in their UK stores!), and cute Kenneth Cole Reaction red flats. For more tips on stylish but practical traveling shoes, see Voyageuse's post.

Step 3: Check the forecast.
For an eight-night trip, I usually pack six pairs of pants twelve tops, and countless pieces of undergarments to account for any weather scenario and social situation. Hey, you never know when it'll be a hot, steamy day or freezing cold night! Actually, yes, you will. It's called weather.com and it works for international as well as US cities. If it's not going to be below freezing, you don't need a thick wool sweater and down coat. Layer thinner pieces instead.

Step 4: Coordinate! I'm sure I'm not the first person to suggest packing coordinating outfits, but I'll be the next person to reiterate that point. Stick to common colors (like black and gray, as I did) and pop them with color. Lay out all of your choices on the bed and assemble them by outfit. This allows you to quickly identify an item if it doesn't fit with all of the others. I managed on four pairs of pants (dark rinse jeans that I wore on the plane, khakis, gray dress pants and black dress pants (lightweight wool, fully lined and virtually wrinkle-free), eight blouses/shirts and two over-sweaters. Everything was light-weight, able to be layered, and in fabrics that don't wrinkle easily. Cotton and linen wrinkle - avoid them when possible. Use jumbo-size zip-lock bags to keep your clothes organized and less likely to wrinkle, and pack a travel-size bottle of Febreeze to keep clothes fresh so you can get more use from them.

Step 5: Don't pack your whole vanity.
Usually there's no need for a hairdryer, as they're in most hotel rooms. Same with an iron. You don't need full-size bottles of shampoo, either. Remember, you're packing a carry-on bag and are limited to the TSA's 3-1-1- policy. Check the travel-size aisle at your local Target for minis of your favorite store brands, or ask your salon for a bunch of samples. There's also no need for a gazillion make-up products. Choose items that are multipurpose or pack several products in a small package, like this lips & eyes set from Two Faced, or these cute gloss dots from Cargo, both at Sephora.
Step 6: Weed it out. Take one last look through everything. Do you need that extra pair of trouser socks, bra, or panties? Or, like I did, can you use a little hotel shampoo to wash them in the sink? Do you need that extra "going out top" or will some inexpensive and small jewelry be enough to dress up your day shirt for evening? And remember, unless you're going somewhere third-world, there are stores and pharmacies that the concierge can direct you to if you forget something. Think of it as a good excuse to shop! In the end, you'll have a small, more manageable bag to wheel through the airport and the satisfaction that you've only packed what you need, and saved some space to bring home souvenirs.

I'd love to hear your packing tips. Leave a comment or drop me a line - travelspark@gmail.com. Happy packing!

Saturday, April 26, 2008

Violet.com - cute travel gifts!

A co-worker recently mentioned a cool gift site called Violet, where you can search by occasion ("29 Again" for her birthday), recipient ("Owns Everything" for him), and category ("Rapid Transit" and "Portable Nest" in Travel).

Needless to say, I headed right for travel and found some very unique and useful gifts for your favorite wanderer.

This set of "Little Cream" A-Z guides includes three books on travel destinations around the world in for romance, architecture, or simply cool places. The books can also be purchased separately.








I love these classy luggage tags and metallic leather passport wallets.

All your travel needs come in (and fit in) their "No Regrets Travel Kit" so you'll never be without those all important ear-plugs and reflexology socks during a long flight:


Ah, so many cute things....makes me wish I had a birthday coming up!

A bike-friendly city

Never have I been in more fear of my life than in Amsterdam, when I was almost run over…by a bike. You may laugh, but as one of the most bike-friendly cities (very eco-friendly!) in the world, they’re everywhere, and you better get out of the way when you hear the “ring, ring” of their little bike horns! An amazing sight was walking by the bike racks, because there were hundreds of bikes stored in one place while people were at work. This led me to wonder: How does one find their bike? Is there a mad dash at the end of the day?













I had always thought Amsterdam was smaller but walking around, my travel companion and I covered a lot of ground. And yes, here and there you do get a whiff of “that unmistakable smell” but it’s not quite as out in the open as one might think. There are “Internet Cafes” and special “Bars” all over the city but the drug is not legal, only tolerated.

There is a lot to do and see in Amsterdam. As in every city, I love exploring the small, out of the way streets. I often find these to have some of the best places to catch a bite to eat, because they’re away from the crowds. The city is also full of museums and although I couldn’t visit them all, I would recommend going to the Rijksmuseum and the Anne Frank House. Being an avid Van Gogh fan, I stopped at the Van Gogh Museum, which houses the largest collections of his paintings and drawings in the world.


















At night, the area to take a stroll down is the Red Light District – a network of alleys containing many “entertainment” services and some unique museums! If you prefer to avoid the height of the activity here, you can walk around here in the daylight and at dusk. But because it is a unique part of the culture and such a popular tourist destination, it is worth checking it out. A few months ago, I watched a documentary which mentioned the Red Light District – how it came about and what rules and regulations have been put into place to make this a controlled environment. There's more to it than meets the eye!

As for where to stay in Amsterdam, there are many places to choose from, and my experience was certainly unique. We stayed on the outskirts of the city. Still a college student on a budget, we found this place through one of the hostel web sites. When we arrived, we found out our “room” was actually a mini camper. The entire “hostel” was a series of mini-campers formed in a circle. In the middle, there was an almost life-sized colorful statue of an elephant and next to it, a large tent which served as a lounge. The campers were very clean and the price was cheap. The only drawback was that the bathrooms were separate stalls on the grounds. Being the lucky person I am, we were there in June, but the city was suffering a rare cold spell when I needed to get up in the middle of the cold night – go figure!

My favorite thing about Amsterdam: the canals…and the canals. They are beautiful and I enjoyed just sitting on a bench and gazing at them and how the city was built around them.


Least favorite thing: Figuring out how to use the metro! We bought this strip of tickets and even after we asked a policewoman to explain it to us, I’m pretty sure we used the metro incorrectly the entire time. If I recall correctly, depending on where you came from, each block on the strip was worth a certain number of stops. Not understanding Dutch definitely added to the confusion. Oh well, something to master if I ever go back.

Friday, April 18, 2008

Discovering Dijon…the city, not the mustard

Paris is Paris and can’t be compared to any other city. But if you’re visiting France and want to explore outside the capital, take a trip to Dijon, France. I studied abroad here for 6 months and loved it. It’s easily accessible from Paris, especially if you take the high-speed train Le TGV, only about an hour and forty minute trip. If you’re looking for a deal, check out if they still offer the round-trip deal on Saturdays. It’s a slower train (so the trip takes about 3 hours) but it leaves at 6am so you can sleep and then you take the train back in the evening.

Dijon is obviously known for its mustard but because it is the capital of the Burgundy region, it is also surrounded by some of the best wine regions. If you’re in Dijon for even one to two days, I would suggest going on a wine tour, which you can get more information about from the Office of Tourism. There are two locations but the easiest one to get to is on Avenue Marechal Foch, next to Jardin Darcy. It's on the way from the train station and before Place Darcy.

I went with my classmates on a bus tour of several vineyards and we stopped for a few hours in Beaune, a small village. A few of us visited the Marché aux Vins, where for €16 (then), you could take a tour of the “caves.” There were many stations, so we tried MANY different wines, drinking from this small pretty silver “thingie” we could keep as a souvenir but which could hold only several sips. Its size was deceiving though because after stopping at each station, everyone on the way home knew where the group singing in the back of the bus had been☺

During your stay, you can buy a packet of bus tickets but the city is very walkable. When I lived in Place Wilson, which was a little past Centre Ville (downtown), I would walk all the way to the train station, which is closer to Centre Ville, and it didn’t take very long at all.

Some of my personal favorites in Dijon and must-sees:

Place Wilson – I lived in an apartment in the building behind the gazebo. Amazing views but there is a lot of traffic going through this area so it took a while to get used to. If you approach Place Wilson from Centre Ville and keep walking down the main road with the wide sidewalks, you’ll reach Parc de la Colombière, a very large and pretty park.






Centre Ville: Dijon has some amazing architecture, definitely look up and check out some of the roofs. The main road is Rue de la Liberté, pretty much a straight shot from the train station.



Rue de la Liberté













I really recommend just walking and getting lost in the side streets around Centre Ville. There are numerous cafes, bakeries, restaurants, and stores. Being a student on a budget, I couldn’t afford to spend too much but I would love to go back now and try some new places. The best baguette supposedly is at Paul’s on Rue de Musette. I’ve tried it and it indeed is yummy!










On Rue de la Préfecture, you’ll find the church of Notre Dame, this also being in the center of Dijon. On the church, you’ll also find a carving of a little owl, called La Chouette. Supposedly this little owl is a good luck charm if you touch it or rub it with your left hand and make a wish. If you look closely, it’s actually been worn quite smooth. This carving is a copy and not the original, which was destroyed by vandals several years ago.













Place Darcy – can’t miss it as it has its own Arc de Triomphe! In Place Darcy, you’ll find the BEST kebab in my opinion. I hope it’s still there or I’ll be really sad if I go back and can’t have one. If I recall correctly, it’s called Darcy Kebab. Looking at this picture of the Arc, it’s to the left, pretty much right next to the little café with the red awning.












Where to stay:

Small budget
Le Jacquemart: Jacquemart (32, rue Verrerie 03 80 60 09 60). Located in a 17th century building in the antique district of Dijon. We used to always recommend this place to visiting family and friends. Great prices (starting at €30 for one person) and but it’s quiet and you’re literally in the center of Dijon.

Bigger budget
Hotel due Nord, Place Darcy 03 80 50 80 50. 68-105 Euros. Very accessible from the train station and to Centre Ville (I’m pretty sure you can even see it from the train station).

We’re talking lavish here:
Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge: 5, rue Michelet, 03 80 30 28 10. 122-250 Euros.

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Terrific Trenches

Please forgive me for my sins; I am not a shoe person. Yes, I am still a red-blooded woman; I just hate to shoe shop. Fortunately I have my mom and friends that help me so my feet don’t look like disasters. TravelSpark in particular is one of my most fashion forward shoe lovers so she is great when I’m just not sure which pair is right.

That being said, I love coats and bags, both of which are essential to have when traveling. Coats can be tricky, especially if you are traveling to multiple locations with different temperatures or if you have many different occasions you will need a coat for. So it is vital to have a couple (at least) of really great coats that will work and can be worn with layers and still look fabulous.

There are so many divine coats for this spring, I could really buy 100 but have settled for 3. The new colors make you want to get out and enjoy the nice weather and the fabrics are soft. The trench is definitely “in” this spring with so many different styles of trench that there is the perfect one for everyone.

This coat from Ann Taylor Loft is quite cute in the new grass green. It is also really comfy and doesn’t wrinkle too badly when packed. I have it myself in Navy with green stitching and am totally in love.Another marvelous coat from Loft is this metallic silver bit of heaven. It’s got a little sheen to it so you can dress it up or down depending on where you need to wear it. This is a good basic and it is long enough to wear with a skirt or pants.
White is the new black this spring and there are some very cute choices for your new spring coat. These two from Ann Taylor are both great for under $100 apiece.

And this awesome green coat from Banana Republic also comes in white.

For those that covet coats as much as I do there is Nordstrom’s Coat Shop online, which is a great stop to see those coats that we all want but so few can afford; like these two from Burberry.
I hope that if you are traveling soon that you don’t just dig out your old basic black trench from your closet but instead go out and splurge a little (or a lot) on one of these marvelous new creations.

Comfy shoes for those cobblestoned streets

Voyageuse here:)

I don’t know about you, but I sure can’t last too long in a pair of cute shoes. 99% of the time, i end up with a limp or plastered with band-aids! And then I wonder how those European women do it? Last time I visited Paris, I gawked in amazement at the majority of women strutting down the street in their fabulous shoes, cleverly maneuvering those cobblestoned streets. Must be that French “Je ne sais quoi.”

If you’re planning for travel or just want some cute shoes that will leave you pain-free, here are three pairs I swear by:

Sneakers, in particular those comfy white ones you may work out in, scream “I’m a tourist” in Europe. If you just love 'em, go for it, but for the sneaker-loving girl, I highly recommend Pumas. I became a devoted Puma fan when I brought along a pair of navy plain Pumas with the velcro straps (oh the convenience!) while studying abroad for 6 months. I walked for hours at times and always felt great. There are tons of Pumas out there, and the ones I’ve had are very light and easy to pack. These are cute in any color:


I’ll also let you in on a two secrets: 1) I’ve scored two deals now on Pumas in the Sale section in DSW - $40 each! 2) My hairdresser told me that the Puma Warehouse in Westford, MA is having their tent sale the last weekend of May – tons of stuff, shoes included, for low prices – like $20! Be prepared for mass chaos though, I’ve heard when they initially unload the trucks, it’s a scene à la Running of the Brides in Boston.



If you’re looking for something a little less casual but don’t want to deal with a heel, try ballet flats. They were all the rage when I visited Paris last year so I rushed out to buy a pair but it took a while to break them in. I came home and scored a great deal once again in the Sale section at DSW: this bronze pair of ballet flats that are so comfy. And can you believe they’re Dr. Scholls?










Finally, if you’re really looking for a pair of shoes to really dress up an outfit, I recommend these:

Coincidentally, TravelSpark has these shoes in ivory for her upcoming wedding and a wedding is exactly where I first tried my pair out. I danced the whole night away in them. This is the second pair of Nina shoes I have owned. With both of them, the material of the shoes is what has made them comfortable to wear, because no hard straps were digging into any part of my foot.



Happy Trails! And if you have any particular shoes that you swear by, please share…a girl can never have enough shoes☺

Monday, April 14, 2008

One 22" Bag for 8 nights? Part 2

When I told friends and co-workers that I planned to travel for eight nights with a 22" carry-on, I was met with snickers and incredulous stares. One colleague who I travel with for two weeks at a time laughed hard, saying "Are you serious? I see what you travel with!" Fair enough. He's seen me struggle plenty of times with a bag so large I could practically stow away in it. The skepticism made me feel quite competitive, and I braced myself for the challenge.

So, can a girly-girl like me who typically travels with enough shoes for every possible situation pack all her stuff in a carry-on? The answer is.... kind of. Sure, everything fit into the bag, and when I get home I'll load up some pictures of how I did it and provide some tips. The problem was that British Airways wouldn't let it come on board with me. BA has very strict rules about carry-ons, which I knew. The measurements of my suitcase are within their limits. However, the measurements of my suitcase crammed with eight nights worth of stuff are not. While the BA rep agreed to let me on the plane with it, she couldn't guarantee that it wouldn't be taken away from me at the gate. Rather than risk the bag not getting on my plane at all, I checked it.

The good news is that this first leg of the trip, at least, is not through Terminal 5 as I first thought. So, there is a slightly higher probability that my luggage will arrive in Israel when I do. In the meantime, I sit in the BA lounge in the wee hours of the morning praying that my bag arrives on time and, just as imporantly, intact (no lock on it since silly me thought I could bring it with me). Since I planned to carry everything on, I have no extra underwear and t-shirt that I typically carry on, and no power cord for my laptop. This could present a problem at my meeting tomorrow...

Despite having to check the luggage after all, the experience was a good one. I was very mindful to pack just enough for the trip and nothing more. When I'm finally reunited with my bag, it will be much easier for me to lug around than my larger bag. At least these are the things I'm telling myself to remain calm and positive!

Lesson learned: pack even lighter so your bag doesn't bulge.

The Driest Continent

The Wandering Albatross here, I know that TravelSpark's blog is all about classy traveling but I am more of an adventure traveler so I hope you will enjoy a little change of pace while I share one of my experiences with you. Please note that this trip is not for the faint of heart.

Wandering Albatross

My whole life I have had a goal to visit all seven continents. The hardest one to get to is also the driest, despite all the ice, Antarctica! Only about 10,000 people actually get to step onto the continent of Antarctica each year, less than the number of people who visit a theme park in one day, so I feel very fortunate to have gotten to be one of the few. My husband and I traveled with a company out of Connecticut, Quark Expeditions, and I would highly recommend them to anyone wanting to travel to Antarctica.

Avalanche and the MV Orlova

It took two days to cross the Drake Passage from Ushuaia, Argentina (the southernmost city in the world). The Drake Passage has the roughest seas in the world, a good 80% or more of our fellow passengers got seasick although neither my husband nor I did. We got to listen to several talks given by our expedition staff, a group of scientists leading the group. After about 1.5 days we saw our first iceberg and the estimate is that it was about 1 mile across.

IMG009

We arrived at Aitcho Island in the evening of the second day and got to see a colony of chinstrap penguins as well as a herd of elephant seals lazing on the beach. The next morning we took our first step onto the actual continent at Brown Bluff where we saw the other two types of penguins that live in the region, gentoo and adelie.

Penguins

Luckily we went late in the summer and there were many baby penguins like this one who is about 10 days old!

Baby Penguin

For 6 days we visited sites all up and down the Antarctic Peninsula. We visited two Argentinian research stations and a British Research station. We took cruises in the zodiac boats and saw a 300 foot glacier calve off into the water. (click on the link to see the video taken by our South African friend, Manie). We got to see seals and whales and all kinds of birds. We even got to swim in the Southern Ocean; yes, it was @#$$% cold!

Seal in Antarctica

We were in the zodiac boat in the Lemaire Channel that made it furthest south on our trip, 65 degrees. Then we had to head back to civilization via two more days across the Drake Passage.

Glorious Day in Antarctica

The continent of Antarctica is highly protected by the Antarctic Treaty and is one of the last great wildernesses in the world. If you are an adventure traveler like I am I highly recommend adding this trip to your list of must do’s.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

To travel = to be grateful

If you read my post about trying to cram all my stuff in a carry-on bag for an eight-night trip, then you know I'm off to Tel Aviv, Moscow, and Paris on a business trip. I leave on Monday, and could not be more thrilled to get out of the office. I haven't been on a plane since October, and while I actually don't care very much for flying, I do love what flying promises: a chance to discover a new place or revisit a favorite one, eat amazing food (most of the time), buy clothes that no one will have back home, and interact with my overseas colleagues who I've learned so much from.

During each trip, whether for business or fun, there is always a very distinct moment when I feel how very far away from home I am. It comes over me in a wave, and puts a huge grin on my face. I felt this way for the first time when I was on my first overseas trip at age sixteen. I was at a mall in Strasbourg, France with my host family. The store we were in was something like the Discovery Channel store, and there was a world map tacked to the wall. I paused to look at it and was suddenly struck by the distance between Strasbourg and Massachusetts.

The last time I felt that way was on a tour of the Soweto Township outside of Johannesburg, South Africa, in October 2007. The tour starts by driving through the most affluent suburbs of Johannesburg, with massive mansions hidden behind high walls and security guards on streets lined with beautiful jacarandas and bougainvilleas. These neighborhoods are a far cry from downtown Johannesburg, where I've never been so keenly aware of my race and affluence. Streets teemed with people selling anything and everything, from fruits and vegetables to fake handbags. Abandoned hotels and high-rise buildings have been taken over by the poor in need of a roof over their heads. Downtown Johannesburg is stuck in a terrible cycle: businesses don't want to return to the area because of the violence and poverty, but the violence and poverty will continue until businesses return to bring revenue and jobs back to the area.

On our drive out to Soweto while we were still definitely in the city, our guide drove us through a marketplace where medicinal roots and herbs were sold. Next to it was the witch doctor market, where python skins hung to dry over the fence and animal carcases hung in bundles from the market's rafters.

When we enter Soweto, I'm struck by how closely the middle-class neighborhoods are to extreme poverty; they're separated by a grassy area about as wide as a football field. Across the field are rows of buildings made of concrete blocks with tin roofs. The field between middle-class and poverty seems to serve as a reminder of how close and yet how far away we are from losing everything.

Part of the tour included walking through an impoverished neighborhood, with dirt streets and one pipe coming out of the ground to provide water to the whole area. During this part of the tour, our guide was a resident of the neighborhood and made his living off of the tips from tourists. He seemed proud of his home, and the fact they just had a public toilet installed. He enouraged us to take photos, but I felt odd about it. It seemed strange to treat their homes as a tourist attraction, but at the same time I suppose it's the only way the rest of the world will be reminded that there are really few of us who can afford a digital camera and an $80 tour.

A group of children spotted us and followed us down the street, smiling and wanting me to take their picture. Ultimately I did, my discomfort outweighed by the need to remember the experience.

On a Saturday in the middle of a two-week business tour of eastern Europe, Israel, and South Africa was when I felt truly grateful to have the life that I have. I don't have to wonder where my next meal will come from, whether I will have shoes to wear to work or if I will have a job to go to at all. My concerns now, almost embarrassingly, are which restaurant I will go to tonight, which of my 30 pairs of shoes I'll wear to work, and whether or not I'll get a raise.

While on business trips, I've climbed the pyramids at Teotihuacan in Mexico, rode roller-coasters at Disneyland Paris, looked in awe at the mosaics in a mosque in Istanbul, and stared amazed at Michelangelo's work in the Sistine Chapel in the Vatican. These excursions were fun; the Soweto tour was not. It was, however, by far the most meaningful. I'm forever thankful to be in a position where travel can introduce me to what is truly happening in the world today, to put me in a place where I can feel how far away from home I am and yet how connected we are to each other.

TravelSpark's New Contributors

My trips over the next several months will provide plenty for me to write about, but while I'm gone things would get pretty boring over here at TravelSpark if there was nothing new to read. During next week's trip, as well as the others that are on my schedule, The Wandering Albatross and Voyageuse will keep you informed and entertained with their travel tips and stories.


The Wandering Albatross is a dear friend with an MBA in International Marketing, four years experience in International Sales, and passport stamps from all seven continents. She's also a creative event coordinator and mom to one of the cutest little boys I know.


Voyageuse is a friend and co-worker in international marketing who speaks several languages, studied abroad in Dijon, France, and got engaged in Paris. Her last trip was to sunny St. Martin.


Keep your eye on the blog for new articles from them this week!

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Turkish Delights, Part 3: Tasty Treats to Make

Growing up, my grandmother's unspoken cooking philosphy seemed to be "Why mess with food's natural flavors?" Between Nanny and Mom, my dining experiences were hearty, healthy, and nearly devoid of spices. Adding oregano to a dish was about as crazy as they would get. As a result, my poor tongue tingles in pain at the mere thought of chili peppers, and my eyes water with only a slight whiff of buffalo chicken.

As I've traveled more throughout my adult life, my palate has gradually become more sophisticated, and my kitchen spice rack's selection has grown.

The Egyptian Spice Bazaar in Istanbul is an amazing place to see, smell, and buy spices as well as local crafts and foods. The building is much smaller and more manageable than the city's more famous Grand Bazaar. It's located in the Eminönü District, so after shopping you can head over to Hamdi Restaurant (mentioned in the previous post) for lunch. During my first trip to Istanbul, I visited the bazaar and was amazed by the beautiful colors and incredibly low prices of the spices from around the world. Shopkeepers invited us in and treated us to tea while we pondered their goods. The photo to the right is framed and hanging in my kitchen to remind me to put a little kick into my cooking.

I've come to love Turkish food for how flavorful the spices are without burning my tastebuds. There aren't many restaurants in Boston with Turkish food on the menu, and my cooking skills are rather limited. However, I am (and you are too!) quite capable of making this yummy recipe for "Turkish Pizza" that I found on The Nest from the book Nibbled: 200 Fabulous Finger Food Ideas by Katy Holder. My friends loved it!

Ingredients:
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra for brushing
7 ounces ground lamb
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons pine nuts
1 small tomato, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch of allspice
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped cilantro leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
Pizza dough
3 tablespoons plain yogurt

Directions:
Preheat the oven to 450˚F. Heat the oil in a frying pan over medium heat and cook the lamb for 3 minutes or until it browns. Add the onions and cook over low heat for 6-8 minutes or until soft. Add the pine nuts, tomato, spices, 1/4 teaspoon of black pepper, and some salt. Cook for 8 minutes or until dry. Stir in the cilantro and lemon juice. Divide the pizza dough into eighteen portions and roll into oval shapes. Spoon some of the filling onto the center of each pizza base. Draw up and pinch together the two short sides to form a boat shape, then brush with oil. Put the pizzas on a lightly greased cookie sheet and bake for 8-10 minutes. Spoon 1/2 teaspoon yogurt on each pizza and serve hot.

For dinner-size pizza, I'd like to make this recipe from Cooking Light:


Enjoy! Please pass along your favorite (and preferably easy) recipes for tasty Turkish cuisine!

Monday, April 7, 2008

Turkish Delights, Part 2: Eating Out in Istanbul

My first experience with food in Turkey was rather unusual. I arrived at Ataturk Airport and climbed into a cab headed to my hotel. The driver was an attractive young guy who spoke zero English, but understood enough to know where I needed to go. He also understood how to make an impression on a young woman such myself.

As a woman traveling alone, my senses were on high alert for anything somewhat astray. So when the taxi came to a halt along the side of the road, I was very confused and borderline concerned. My driver rolled down the window and bought a large wand of fluffy pink cotton candy from a street vendor. In the time it took me to wonder how the heck he was going to drive while eating cotton candy, he turned around and handed it to me. Now, I don't really like cotton candy, and my mother always taught me not to take food from strangers. But what's a girl to do? For the rest of the ride I occupied myself with the driver's sticky souvenir, and at the end he got a good tip.

I've had better but more mundane experiences with Turkish food since then. My stays at the Swissotel The Bosphorus have been replete with tasty treats. The hotel has especially delicious sweets at the Cafe Suisse, including yummy Turkish baklava and a most unusual dessert called tavuk göğsü, which is a pudding made with chicken. People love it, but it's a major texture violation for me. Of course, the inspiration for the title of this article (Turkish Delight), is abundant throughout the city.


An excellent restaurant I've been fortunate to visit twice is 360, in Taksim Square, which boasts 360 degree views of the city from a terrace with funky patio furniture. The clientele is mostly trendy Turks despite the restaurants reviews in western travel magazines. It's not an easy place to find, as you must enter a non-descript building and take the tiny elevator to the top floor, where you're met by sexy lighting and a metal detector. Be sure to make a reservation.

For a more touristy experience with more traditional food and an equally spectacular view, Hamdi Restaurant in the Eminönü district fits the bill.

An excellent neighborhood for wining, dining, and shopping is Ortaköy. Located right on the Bosphorus, it's a popular local and tourist hangout, with lots of winding streets waiting to be explored. If I can ever go to Istanbul purely for pleasure, I will be sure to spend more time there.

Now that I'm writing this blog, I'll be keeping much better track of where and what I eat!